Simply Sublime Summer Fare: Grilled Fish & Farm Stand Vegetables

Those who live in East Hampton are particularly lucky because they have one of the region’s best sources of fresh fish, The Seafood Shop in Wainscott, right down the street from Pike’s Farmstand on Sag Main Street. It makes shopping for dinner almost as easy as cooking it.

The Seafood Shop in Wainscott is open daily until 6 p.m. so the only thing to remember is to leave the beach in time to pick up some fresh filet of blackfish or fluke, tuna steaks, sea scallops or one of the delectable prepared dishes such as the crab cakes, stuffed clams or lobster. They also make paella and will cater clambakes and lobster cookouts complete with all the fixings.

The Seafood Shop has been owned and run by Colin Mather for the past 15 years. He took over from the shop’s late founder, John Haessler, after having been a long-time journeyman fishmonger. There isn’t much about fresh seafood that Mather doesn’t know so Patch asked him for an update on what’s in season and of particular note.

Mather said that commercial striped bass season began on July 1. The fish is a perennial favorite, but commercial fishing regulations stipulate that only striped bass measuring 24” to 36” may be harvested. Mather says that this makes the fish scarce in addition to being popular as many of the striped bass caught off the shores of the East End exceed the size limits.

Fisherman are also harvesting monkfish and sea bass and swordfish and tuna in the deeper waters farther off the coast. Blackfish, a local delicacy, which The Seafood Shop has been recommending to its patrons for several years, has become another favorite. It’s firm and mild and works well on the grill brushed with olive oil, fresh parsley, garlic and pepper.

Blackfish is considerably pricier this year than last, and Mather admits he may be the reason for the short supply of this relatively new favorite. “It’s delicious in any form of preparation,” Mather said. “It’s a fish with great substance and flavor. Maybe one person in all the years I’ve recommended it has not cared for it. Could be I’m the great reason for the shortage. I’ve got to start recommending something else and let the little guys rebound a bit.”

Nothing complements fresh fish as well as just-picked vegetables from a local farm stand and Pike’s is just west of the The Seafood Shop, off 27, in Sagponack. The season for corn and tomatoes is almost here and zucchini is plentiful at the moment. A quick stop at the stand, which is nestled against a field of summer flowers, is a perfect and simple way to create a wholesome and tasty dinner without having to brave the parking lots and crowds at Waldbaum’s or Citarella.

One of the tastiest ways to prepare the abundant supply of fresh zucchini on offer is to make a delectable summer compote. Sauté one large sliced onion until transparent, add a bit of chopped garlic and some salt and pepper and season to taste. Then add six or eight baby zucchini chopped into pieces and sauté until tender.